Greetings from Venice! (Part 1)
This will be a combined blog for a couple of days, since I was not able to get onto the Internet for the last two nights; I’m sending this from a wi-fi hotspot in Venice.
Tuesday was a very busy, but very rewarding day for all of our travellers. Everyone enjoyed a quick breakfast in the restaurant of the Hotel Excelsior which is on the 10th floor. Out one side you have a beautiful view of the blue and turquoise waters of the Adriatic, and on the other side a view of the Maella Mountains.
We got off to an early start in order to accomplish everything we wanted to do. We first drove down to Marina di San Vito, where we had an opportunity to wade into the warm waters of the Adriatic. Larry was planning ahead, because he had his swim trunks and went for a dip. I had a slight adventure; the washroom door locked behind me - and I couldn’t get out! Fortunately my wife Cheryl was with me (or I might still be in there!) and was able to get someone with a key. All I can say is that I’m glad I got out! Apparently I wasn’t the only person to have this happen - Jean told me it happened to her too!
From Marina di San Vito we drove up to Sant’ Apollinare, where we had a terrific view of the entire Moro River Crossing area. Mak explained the events of early December, when the Canadians made three attacks across the river - at Villa Rogatti, San Leonardo, and San Donato. We then travelled down into the valley of the Moro, and saw the famous crossing site where the Royal Canadian Engineers put in a 200 metre Bailey Bridge to cross the river - in 1943 a morass of mud and flooding, but today a tiny trickle with banks lined with bamboo and grape vines. We drove up the road where the Calgary tanks advanced to support the Loyal Edmonton Regiment and the Seaforths as they took the remains of San Leonardo. We then drove down “Royal Avenue” leading to Sterlin Castle. It was in this simple stone casa that Lt. Mitch Sterlin and 11 of his soldiers held out for a night, blocking a German counterattack and beating an onslaught of attackers. Today it is a nice looking house; instantly recognizable, and marked by a plaque from the Royal Canadian Regiment.
We drove back to San Leonardo, and took the road heading to the infamous “Gully”, where many Canadians died in a futile attempt to break through the German lines. We then followed the route of Captain Paul Triquet along the south side of the obstacle, across a culvert, and then to the east, to “Casa Berardi”. The house is pock marked from combat; on the grounds there is a memorial to the “Van Doos” and a plaque honouring Capt. Triquet, who won a Victoria Cross for his actions in capturing and then holding the house.
We boarded the bus and drove a few hundred metres to “Cider Crossroads” - an intersection on the Ortona-Orsogna lateral road which was an important objective in 1943, as its capture would cut off one of the main enemy routes for supplying Ortona. Unfortunately it was where Lt. Sterlin and a number of his RCR comrades were killed in a disastrous attack on December 19th, 1943. Today it is marked by a Sherman Tank, dedicated to the memory of the Three Rivers Regiment.
We then drove in to Ortona, and had the opportunity to visit the church of Santa Maria di Constantinopoli, site of the famous Christmas Dinner of the Seaforth Regiment. We then walked up to the Piazza Vittoria, and broke for a quick lunch. Did you know that people in Italy put potatoes on their pizza, and potatoes on pizza look just like slices of onions? Or that anchovies look a lot like mushrooms? A couple of our travellers ‘enjoyed’ these unique treats, but that’s part of the joy of travelling, and the taste was quickly washed away with some delicious gelatos.
After lunch we gathered together and walked down the Corso Victor Emmanuele towards the town hall - evidence of the battle can still be seen on some of the buildings. Mak took us then to the piazza where a building containing a platoon of the Loyal Edmonton Regiment was blown up, killing most of the occupants; three were rescued that day, a fourth was rescued after spending a few days trapped in the rubble.
We then went to the Piazza of the Cattederale di San Tomasso. The church was virtually chopped in two when a large tower was demolished by the Germans to form rubble piles designed to block Canadian tanks. It has been rebuilt, but there is an obvious difference in the colour of the bricks between the original and repair. The ornamental tracing around the doorway shows ornate carving where they were able to locate the original pieces, otherwise it’s just plain. Some of us walked down the Via Dolorosa to view the church from the same point as where Charles Comfort must have been when he made his famous painting - you can still recognize the buildings in the painting.
Next we walked down towards the medieval Castello, and then back towards the Pizza Plebescita, where the statue “the Price of Peace” is located. It depicts a Canadian soldier helping his dying comrade, and was placed here by Ortona veterans in 1999. We had the opportunity to meet Francesca LaSorda, a very spry and tiny (Mrs. McLennan towers over her!) Italian lady who places flowers on the monument every day.
We then walked to the Museum of the Battle of Ortona, a very interesting place which preserves many artifacts from the battle. There were many large photographs, and some intricate and highly detailed dioramas, all which help you better understand the event.
We left Ortona and headed out to the Moro River Canadian War Cemetery. We had a brief service and wreath laying - mille grazie to Allan Methven for organizing this! The wreath was lain by Stewart Nelson, who was visiting his uncle who is buried here. I visited the graves of Pte. Stewart Cann, Almer Hunkin, and Sydney King - young men from our community (Stewart and Almer were former students of our school). The cemetery is immaculate, but the beauty of the colourful flowers is contrasted by the 1615 stones - of which 1375 are for Canadians.
After what had been a pretty long and emotionally draining day we headed to Poggiofiorito, and toured the olive oil factory operated by the Andreassi family for five generations. We were able to sample some of the local produce, and everyone agreed it was good way to end the day. We returned to Lanciano and went for dinner (a very long and sloooow dinner - we think they had to grow the food before they could prepare it!). I had the opportunity to talk to one of my old teachers - Mr. Kellow, who is teaching at the summer school in Lanciano. He was surprised to see me (he left Saunders when I was in Grade 12 - 1978) but remembered me and my older brother Don (who is probably reading this). All in all it was a good day!